A chef takes sides against food elitism
Call it what you want: culinary snobbery, radical chic applied to good food, the diet trend. The thing that pasta and beans is out of fashion, there is a seasonality of cheeses, and new foods cost half your salary. Food elitism risks making us poorer but also more undernourished. And, as this chef writes, it is also unbearable , especially if it is not the whim of the moment but becomes a trend.
The chef in question is Ruby Tandoh, a very talented girl both in the kitchen (she won a season of Bake Off) and when she writes. Which, after having earned a permanent space with a column in the famous newspaper The Guardian, she has chosen to give up and quit. Reason? Too many people with the stench under their noses when it comes to recipes.
The food environment in the newspapers is toxic, she explained. What you read about cooking and health in magazines makes people feel ashamed that they cannot afford certain foods.
The so-called “foodies” are not passionate about good food, they just want to set trends. And behind the most famous gurus there is always some sponsor.
Thanks to social media and newspaper columns or chefs who go on TV, good food has become less and less democratic . With the disadvantage that it has become increasingly difficult for people to understand what to eat and what not to. It is always easier to open your wallet for this or that superfood.
” Eat a seasonal food: make yourself a nice custard “, is one of the provocative phrases that Tandoh posted on her twitter account.
In her latest book, “ Eat Up ” (basically: Eat!), Tandoh explains that eating is one of our greatest pleasures. We eat not only to nourish ourselves, but to share, celebrate, recover from a bad day.
Yes, on the one hand it is right to eat healthily, on the other hand, however, demonizing food is profoundly wrong.
Feeling scared or worried constantly about what we put on the table can be bad for your health, even more than indulging in a biscuit. Then when the right food becomes the food of an elite, it becomes food difficult to find in supermarkets or it always makes us hope to be able to earn enough to invest in our health, when maybe it is enough to go more to the greengrocer and less to instagram, then nutrition becomes a problem.
Food elitism risks alienating us from honest and sincere food, the one that has raised us up to now.
But food doesn’t have to be a problem, explains Ruby.
Nutrition must be a spontaneous fact, and what Ruby invites us to do is to rebel against those who impose many, too many, stakes on us.
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